From the sciure, those impeccably dressed Milanese women of a certain age, to influencers like Chiara Biasi and Chiara Ferragni, Milan earns its reputation as Italy’s fashion capital.
The city’s fall 2024 shows wrapped up Monday with a characteristic mix of elegant and alluring styles. As always, tailoring and made-in-Italy craftsmanship were on display, and influences ranged from menswear to the boudoir.
Virtually every runway had great coats, from Max Mara’s plush cocoons to Iceberg’s oversized trenches. They’ll come in handy over transparent dresses paired with granny panties, the way hip girls dress for parties today. Leathers and elaborate knits abounded, often asymmetrical and cinched with wide belts. On the color front, earthy shades of moss, umber and aubergine reflected the season, while “unexpected red” and “yellow without warning” added pops of color.
The game of designer musical chairs continues, and several creative directors premiered their first collections. Adrian Appiolaza pulled together a Moschino line in just six weeks after his predecessor Davide Renne tragically died a few days into his tenure. Walter Chiapponi was onboarded at Blumarine in November, while Matteo Tamburini took over at Tod’s. Meanwhile, London-based, Sweden-raised Ethiopian designer Feben showed for the first time in Milan, thanks to Dolce & Gabbana’s generous “Supported by” project.
Here’s a look at the 36 Milan FW ‘fits that did the most.
1. Versace
Versace’s red leather wiggle dress looked just as sexy on the model as it did on Anne Hathaway, who graced the front row.
2. Ferragamo
Ferragamo designer Maximilian Davis enlisted olive drab, then elevated the military color with leather fabrications and wide, quilted belts.
3. Dolce & Gabbana
Saving the best for last, Dolce & Gabbana closed its seductive show with super strutter Naomi Campbell in a black lingerie look.
4. Moschino
Moschino’s signature smiley-face sweater will turn a frown upside down. So will the feel-good LOVE t-shirt and PEACE sweater dress by the brand’s new creative director Adrian Appiolaza.
5. MM6 Maison Margiela
It’s simple. The MM6 Maison Margiela design team focuses on effortless essentials.
6. Tod’s
Tod’s creative director Matteo Tamburini transforms the house’s famous leathers into a cowl top, pillow-soft bag and wide belt with a buckle inspired by vintage Alfa Romeo grilles.
7. Roberto Cavalli
Fausto Puglisi’s rock-solid collection for Roberto Cavalli featured glamorous marble-print pieces. Whether Calacutta or Portoro, they were in the same vein.
8. Emporio Armani
Giorgio Armani knocked the stuffing out of menswear more than 40 years ago, and his Emporio tailoring was suitably soft.
9. Etro
With a riot of prints, rich embellishments and sumptuous embroideries, Marco de Vincenzo perfected Etro’s patterns.
10. Luisa Beccaria
Luisa Beccaria’s trademark fresh floral frocks for day and night are blooming lovely.
11. Fendi
With Fendi scion Delfina Delettrez Fendi as a forever muse, how could Kim Jones’ fall collection be anything but devastatingly chic?
12. Max Mara
Coat specialist Max Mara never disappoints. A cozy gray cocoon over a short shift is instantly iconic.
13. Giorgio Armani
With a purity of line and adornment, Giorgio Armani’s evening gowns are modern marvels.
14. Bottega Veneta
Bottega Veneta’s Matthieu Blazy didn’t just pump up the volume, he draped and reshaped it.
15. Marni
Marni’s Francesco Risso invited Ye, the former Kanyé West, and his wife, Bianca Censori, to see his collection in a tunnel lined entirely with white paper. The ideal place to showcase his experimental shapes.
16. Gucci
To be brief, shorts are in for winter. Gucci models legged it down the runway in knit and bedazzled versions by creative director Sabato de Sarno.
17. Diesel
Only Diesel could make a miniskirt and belly shirt feel maximalist. All it took was a colorful paint print and fake fur trim.
18. Prada
Like a beautiful present, this Prada cocktail dress is topped with bows. Miuccia Prada and her co-creative director Raf Simons beribboned their bougie wares.
19. Philipp Plein
Philipp Plein repeated his PP monogram again and again, making his alliterative logo one to covet.
20. Ferrari
Ferrari put the pedal to the metal with this thrilling collection by Rocco Iannone, opening with a fleet of sleek rosso corsa ready-to-wear recalling the supercars.
21. Sportmax
Scarlet dresses are a major trend at this season’s awards shows. Sportmax’s midi stunner is ready for the red carpet.
22. Tom Ford
With screen sirens Sharon Stone, Uma Thurman and Eva Green heating up the FROW, Tom Ford designer Peter Hawkings sent out sizzling three-piece suits.
23. Jil Sander
Models sloped their way down the catwalk in Luke and Lucie Meier’s well-rounded Jil Sander collection.
24. MSGM
It’s not Capote’s Swans, but their naughty spawn, that inspired the uptown-downtown aesthetic at Massimo Giorgetti’s MSGM.
25. Missoni
Bottom line, Missoni’s fabled knits are even more fun in a symphony of stripes.
26. Bally
With the precision of a Swiss timepiece, Bally creative director Simone Bellotti unveiled a buttoned-up and meticulous collection.
27. Ermanno Scervino
When a woolen fabric is given a lacy treatment and turned into a bra and skirt, you know they’re Ermanno Scervino.
28. La DoubleJ
Designer JJ Martin is in her renaissance era, and that means swirling Florentine prints in mineral colors.
29. Feben
Feben is ahead of the curves. The mononymous designer honors Ashley Graham with this bodycon confection.
30. Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini
We won’t keep you in suspense: Hitchcock heroines inspired the Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini collection.
31. Blumarine
Animal prints are Milan’s neutrals. Blumarine’s new creative director Walter Chiapponi added a jolt of color to a cheetah dress with a must-have coat.
32. Genny
Alexandra Daddario, Eva Longoria and Regina Hall are fans of Genny glam, for obvious reasons.
33. Alberta Ferretti
Alberta Ferretti has expanded far beyond evening dresses, but let’s recognize that her gowns are gorgeous.
34. Chiara Boni La Petite Robe
La Petite Robe is French for The Little Dress, but Chiara Boni presented plenty of Little Suits, like this natty herringbone number.
35. Iceberg
In highlighter yellow, Iceberg’s trench, bag and pointy pumps make a vivid monochromatic statement.
36. Brunello Cucinelli
Brunello Cucinelli math: Extravagant fabrics + graceful silhouettes = ineffable luxury.
