Authenticity is a central issue in discussions about the value of clothing in today’s culture as it is a central issue in contemporary cultural studies more broadly. But today, the notion of authenticity is also a problem and clearly presents difficulties in global fashion discussions. These ongoing inconsistent judgements take their power from this type of definitional style imprecision and as a consequence, their routine is left unchallenged. Having been a luxury mens fashion director since a few decades ago, a big part of my job has always been to report on brand authenticity. The lack of justification and perpetual mystification of the term makes analysis all the more difficult. It is clearly important to investigate the ramifications of these apparently unselfconscious descriptions and judgements. I often listen to brands emphasizing to us fashion journalists about the authenticity of their respective brands. For consumers, authentic maintains an undisputed origin. Moreover, it is genuine. Authentic also carries the forthright connotation of authoritative confirmation. Concisely, that things or people are what they are claimed or appear to be by representing one’s true nature or beliefs.
There is no royal road to success as a luxury menswear brand. Proficiency can only be attained by hard work, fine craftsmanship and by carefully watching the market when an opportunity arises. Once the collection has been developed, the first necessity is a good working knowledge of the clothing to be sold. In luxury, the tyro as well as a expertly trained professional, should learn to distinguish by sight and touch the various types of cloth to know the uses for which each is suitable. An appreciation of the quality of the different grades will most definitely become part of a luxury brands DNA. In addition to acquiring a good working knowledge of cloth, a brand should also study the prevailing fashions of dress in order that to be able to advise the customer as to the correct clothes for any particular occasion. As I have endlessly reported about the enormous menswear transitional phase taking place at present, so much to the point that I occasionally fancy myself as the Paul Revere of menswear, just as during the historical time when he (Paul ) was on his midnight ride to alert the colonial militia in April 1775 to the approach of British forces, I find myself alerting consumers that there is a "Call to Arms" happening in menswear.
Despite the increased prominence of theoretical anti-essentialism in cultural criticism, authenticity has played a powerful and defining role throughout the history of menswear. Indeed, the possibilities of luxury performers have been overlooked by more general discourse that has validated men’s fashion as the authentic expression of style and a key aspect in the longstanding necessary connection forged between. The emphasis on validating luxury menswear apparel as the marker of authenticity has overlooked the way that men’s fashion used style to undermine conspicuous consumption and to question essentialist notions about style. Therefore, those clothing styles, which attempt to conceal their constuctedness, warrant the most analytical attention (as these are the styles that they have thought to evade capture).
A further issue relates more specifically to authenticity and performance. Yet, underlying all their so-called modernity to be devoted to worthy men remains their deepest instinctive need. An elegance of uniformity for respective occasions is what I advocate. To my delight, there are certain basic tenets of style and cut in men’s clothing that are unchangeable. * Feel free to IM me and I will gladly go into deeper detail. Developments in the economy and in social attitudes are equally and mutually influential in the rise of interest in men’s fashion. My point is, at present, we are experiencing a consumer who demands comfort as well as guidance. Nevertheless, we should not confuse modern comfort with dressing inappropriately. Truth be known, if two men of equal stature are applying for the same upper management position, the well-dressed man will most defiantly win hands down. How can we ignore fashion when over 90 percent of our physical bodies are covered in it at the workplace? The answer is simple, " we can't."
On a separate but historical fashion related note, The word Commando came into general use as a result of the South African war in 1899-1902. A Commando was an administrative and tactical unit in the Boer Army. Commandos often fought as a small independent unit making raids on British Columns. In the modern sense, commandos are adventurous volunteers selected for their toughness self-reliance and initiative. Seldom comes a luxury menswear apparel brand that I would associate with Commandos but nevertheless, allow me to do so here. Stefano Ricci is a Florentine menswear luxury brand that has continued to operate as an independent unit. And, in my estimation they naturally exercise an adventurous self-reliant initiative. Don't get me wrong, this is a one of the very best high-end luxury menswear brands with specializations ranging from the highest grade crocodile (belts, shoes and bags) to refined powerhouse suits, developed out of the finest advanced fabric combinations and forthright silhouettes. Nevertheless, there is a undeniable toughness, masculinity and a keen sense of spirit related to this brand. Stefano Ricci is noble strength in style. Even if you look at the brands majestic and powerful eagle logo as a common thread throughout the brand strategy identification. I was also delighted to learn that Stefano Ricci is a place where a man can purchase complete wardrobe from apparel, footwear, children's and even home.
And speaking of home, in 2010, Stefano Ricci Group acquired the Antico Setificio Florentino. This assured the future and continuation of its remarkable craftsmanship-based traditions under the direction of the historical Florentine silk factory and experts. The acquisition coincided with the launch of Stefano Ricci Home; which incidentally presented the home collections to the attention of the international elite and the fashion world. Moreover, it encouraged a restored interest in the historical atelier. In fact, the Antico Setificio Florentino along with the home collection have grown to become an established presence at trade fairs for interior design and luxury yachts not to mention dedicated spaces at Stefano Ricci Boutiques worldwide. If you have never seen a Stefano Ricci boutique, might I kindly suggest that you pay it a visit. I prefer not to spoil the your encounter, however needless to say, you will most certainly be intrigued. Moreover, you will experience the true meaning of authenticity!
Now then, back to the factory. Inside the factory, I found master weavers working in an environment capitalizing on traditions of the past creating the dichotomy of classic and contemporary designs. *On a side note, one of the key factors of success today is successfully pairing heritage with modernity. I was introduced and reviewed 12 looms - 6 handlooms dating back to the 18th century and 6 semi-mechanical looms from the 19th century. I could not help but be astonished to learn that the hand looms require an artisans full day work to create just 40 centimeters of fabric whilst its semi-mechanical looms produce about 10 meters per day.
The factory maintains historical archives passed down from generation to generation. And yet, all patterns and drawings can be exclusively reproduced on request of individual clients. In the past the Antico Setificio Florentino clientele has been the prestigious noble Florentine households and in the 1800's it grew in popularity with European nobility. In modern times, many European architects and famous interior designers have been able to develop and create for their clients needs albeit simple or extravagant. Many elegant and stylish projects have already come to fruition since the acquisition concretely represented in Suite 118 of the Four Seasons Hotel in Florence previously the Palazzo Scala-Della Gherardesca.
From my past experience and knowledge of the brand, I speculate that Stefano Ricci is a storyteller. Each season, the brand conceptualizes a well thought out creative story that is beautifully presented through progressive print and digital advertising/marketing campaigns. This season, the story has been built around fables and myths and how that is translated into contemporary reality is seemingly the power and the presence behind this brand. Balbo's Tower, Aphrodite's myth, Atlantics legend and Montecristo's treasure are the 4 elements characterized a journey of exploration and discovery. What I am so fascinated with is how Stefano Ricci holds on to a concrete level of unrivaled style. To paint a clearer picture, this brand beats to its own drum and rightly so. A love for uncontaminated nature, and for the sea with its horizons open for conquest. To clarify, the Stefano Ricci man dresses with contemporary as well as with classical references, in a path of knowledge and culture that expresses quintessential Italian style. On a style note, I appreciate how the brand has concern for dressing us contemporary men by implementing classical references. As much as I can write about the use of bold seductive colors and distinctive form, what peaks my interest here is that they have managed (prior to any other menswear luxury brand), a blend between both sportswear and classics. To my point, the current collection is based on Charles Baudelaire's poem Man and Sea which is a cultivation of freedom which is reflected in blue Poseidon waterproof and windproof garments and pairing it with sunset orange and bold red with a constant of white running through the collection as the base master thread. Fresh new travel jackets equipped with hidden pockets an easy to fit drawstrings easy to handle for the explore in us. It is a carefree look but we mustn't forget, a well thought out style just the same.
On a business note; Stefano Ricci Spa continues to grow with a turnover or 143.8 million Euro which is a 13 % increase. The upward trend has been recored from the first quarter of 2018 by the prospect of new boutique openings. Since the beginning of the year, SR has inaugurated mono brand stores in Phnom Penh, Hong Kong, Dubai and Tbilisi. "The investment plan continues with 5 boutique openings in Sanya, Miami, New Delhi, Macau and Sochi" stated Niccolo Ricci CEO of the company founded in 1972 by his father Stefano Ricci. "This is an important development made possible by the growth of our production capacity, which aims as always, to seek the absolute quart of Made in Italy".
The collection delivers a vast spectrum of shades of blue and there is a constant call to the timeless pleasure of yachting, protected by matte technical silk blousons and formal pinstripe suits in ultra-fine weaves of wool and cashmere. The Stefano Ricci Spring/Summer 2019 Collection is for the man who lets himself be seduced by the colours and forms of beautiful garments, which blur between excellent sportswear and classics with contemporary silhouettes. Cala Maestra, Cala del Diavolo. The Fortress that holds many secrets, and the monastery of Saint Mamilian of Palermo, which stands on the remains of a temple said to have been consecrated to Jupiter. Montecristo is an island of wonders, a protected and almost inaccessible nature reserve. I am sure you understand the metaphorical statements here. It is the territory of native goats and of the Monte Cristo asp vipers that were thrown onto pirate ships. There are abysses, rocks, spring waters and areas of pure freedom for migratory birds. It is here that Stefano Ricci presents the new collection, in a close encounter with the places and the environment celebrated by Alexandre Dumas in The Count of Monte Cristo, where Edmond Dantès finds the treasure that leads to the path of his redemption. And it was from this mysterious treasure that the adventurous gentleman's coat of arms was inspired: a mountain that stands out against the blue sea and which carries a cross at its summit. It is a story of men and adventure, and a supplement novel has consecrated its charm and mystery. It is a story of men and influence, of courage and willpower. It was this universe of emotions and beauty that inspired Stefano Ricci, who continues his marvelous journey in the world of menswear: a unique style, with deep roots and an infinite view towards the future, a limitless tribute to Made in Italy, with an artistic hand that safeguards the treasures of manufacturing for the masculine lifestyle that is conquering the world.
I recently had the privilege to discuss with Stefano Ricci CEO Nicolo Ricci and Stefano Ricci Creative Director Filippo Ricci about global growth strategy, the acquisition of Antico Setificio Fiorentino and what the consumer can expect to experience when walking into one of Stefano Ricci's exquisite boutiques to understand what menswear authenticity truly is.
Joseph DeAcetis: Talk to us about Stefano Ricci's growth strategy with respect to retail operations during a controversial time for brick &mortar.
Niccolo Ricci: Our goal is to open a flagship store in each capital of the most important countries, in order to ensure a direct presence for our best clients. We have already opened four boutiques in 2018, in order to pursue this objective; now we may be found in Phnom Penh, Hong Kong, Dubai (in a new Flagship store within the Dubai Mall), and Tbilisi. Our opening in the Hong Kong Peninsula Hotel is a concrete expression of this strategy, as our search for the optimal brick & mortar location led us to this place after years of research. Our presence in two other global markets will soon become more substantial as well. We will open a Flagship store in India’s capital, New Delhi, following our successful entrance into the Indian market in the country’s financial capital of Mumbai in 2014. We aim to be leaders in Miami, as we will open a boutique in the city’s thriving Design District next month. We cannot ignore the fact that our e-commerce site is proving vital. The public has an ever better understanding of our production, and our site has somewhat reduced the age of our market. However, our clients maintain their preference to buy within our boutiques; this is where they want to enjoy the direct purchase experience and the feelings that arise from being in contact with absolute quality.
JD: Speak to us about both the cultural and business significance acquisition of Antico Setificio Fiorentino.
NR: We purchased Antico Setificio Fiorentino to both preserve the ancient knowledge of Florentine craftsmanship as well as to shine a spotlight on the material and cultural wealth that is found in Florentine production. Textiles from the ASF have enriched the world’s museums and palaces, from the Moscow Kremlin to the more local but no less magnificent Tribuna of the Uffizi in Florence. The slowly woven fabrics have also been brought into the modern production of garments, as seen in the limited series of STEFANO RICCI jackets and ties that have been created with our exclusive designs. The production of suits, for example, is deliberately limited to about 30 units per year. At all times we are aware of the responsibility that is tied to this type of traditional production. Two small examples of this: we do not use synthetic fibers but rather threads that are coloured by natural dyes, and we have two employees who are responsible for the maintenance of the invaluable looms so that the cultural treasure of this traditional machinery is not lost. We must respect both the environment that we work in as well as those who are called to work with these precious materials.
JD: When a new customer enters into a Stefano Ricci store, what can he except to see and learn with respect to style that is unique and powerful for both business and leisure.
Filippo Ricci: When a new client enters a STEFANO RICCI boutique, there is a welcoming feeling, an enchanting atmosphere that allows him to make his own choices while seated on a crocodile armchair, assisted by directors who are trusted consultants in choosing the best production, and with a tailor at his disposal. It is the attention to detail, the care given to the presentation of colours and designs in all their variants, and the suggestion of the perfect match that make all the difference.
Filippo Ricci: On a timeline of menswear style, what would be the most memorable contribution to luxury menswear that Stefano Ricci has developed that will go down in history.
Our story began with an accessory, the tie, and developed into a full collection of ultimate excellence; a stand-out piece would be the STEFANO RICCI belt with an eagle head and diamonds, which has become an icon of our style. Other points that may make history would be the choice to open the first of the brand's boutiques in Shanghai in 1993, and to have maintained a 100% Made in Italy production without compromise.
