Ghent, Belgium: Castles and canals
Ghent is one of the loveliest and liveliest old cities I know. The large student population gives the town its laid back and playful atmosphere. The seriously old buildings create the perfect surroundings for an experience that is both relaxed and awe inspiring. To me, as an American, canals and old houses always were connected to Amsterdam. When I visited the girlfriend for the first time, I learned that there’s a lot more to this part of Europe than I originally thought. One of the added bonuses is the close proximity of Germany and Belgium, each with their own character and charm.
Ghent was one of those visits I didn’t plan for. The girlfriend decided that it was a good idea to take a small detour on the way to Brussels Airport, where I was going to catch the flight back home. It was a great idea. You can’t beat having a local tour guide.
Traffic in Ghent is interesting. "Be nice," may be the traffic law they’re going by. Trams, bicycles, cars and buses often share the same space, without lights or designated areas. Fortunately, large parts of the inner town are closed off for all traffic except pedestrians. Ghent is a fairly big city, with about a quarter of a million inhabitants, but the historic center of the town has the perfect size and flow for walking, with one or more sights everywhere you look.
The city has a long and rich history, often with tragic undertones. The people of Ghent had a knack for picking the wrong side during the long and complicated 100 year war. Siding with the French against the Spanish emperor came at a price when the French lost in 1540. The ninth-century abbey in the center of town was torn down and a fortress was built in its place to permanently house 2,500 Spanish troops. It was called the "Spaniards Castle" to avoid confusing it with the other fortified castle "Gravensteen" less than half a mile down the road that dated back to the 1100’s.
Modern visitors won’t find many traces of the Spaniards Castle, but Gravensteen is still there. Very much so. The impressive complex, restored in all its glory, can be visited daily. Another place for a stop on the city tour is the Cloth Hall with Belfry from the 14th and 15th century. In 1613, the city gave Ghent’s fencing club permission to use the third floor of the Cloth Hall for practice. They have been doing so for more than four centuries. Daily, there is a guided tour to the top of the Belfry at 3.30 p.m.
The most famous street of Ghent is probably also one of the newest: Het Graffitistraatje (Graffiti Street). The street is an ever changing outdoor painting. Take your spray cans or just your camera.
Ghent is one of those places that are much better to experience than to read about. Enjoy a local beer on one of those terraces while taking in the stunning views, stroll through narrow streets with fabulous shops or dine al fresco on the cobblestone square of the Vrijdagmarkt (Friday Market).
Looking for a special treat to take home from your Ghent adventure? Find one of the street vendors that sell "Gentse Neuzen" (Ghent’s noses) from a small cart. The soft and chewy cone shaped sweets are unique to Ghent and come in berry or licorice flavor. A lovely souvenir for those that cannot live by Belgian chocolate alone.
Comments, questions or suggestions are more than welcome. You can contact Mickey Welsh at mewelsh@gannett.com.You can follow "Wish I Was There" on Facebook for a daily dose of Europe at https://www.facebook.com/travelmickey1.