Born on April 9, 1957, Martin Margiela is a pioneering Belgian fashion designer and artist known for his inventive vision and eco-conscious approach. As the creative force behind French luxury fashion house Maison Martin Margiela, Martin's deconstructed, upcycled creations and oversized silhouettes have left an indelible mark on the fashion landscape. Join me today as we look back at the life of the designer who would go on to shape and influence so much of the fashion world we know and love today.
Early Life and Education
Growing up in Genk, Belgium, Margiela became fascinated with fashion after watching a TV show featuring influential 1960s designers André Courrèges and Paco Rabanne. As a teenager, he experimented with second-hand clothes from flea markets, creating unique and stylish looks. His taste for pre-worn clothes would later influence his work as a full-fledged designer at major fashion houses. Margiela befriended Inge Grognard, who would later become the make-up artist for all of his shows.
Margiela studied at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts (Antwerp), graduating in 1979. He then worked as a freelance designer for several years before joining Jean Paul Gaultier in Paris as a design assistant in 1984.
Maison Margiela: The Birth of a fashion revolution
In 1988, Margiela and his business partner Jenny Meirens founded Maison Martin Margiela, a brand that would soon redefine luxury fashion. His approach to fashion was groundbreaking, challenging conventional norms and reimagining luxury. Margiela deconstructed garments and reconstructed them in innovative ways, repurposing unconventional materials like broken porcelain, drinking straws, and shoelaces. His collections pushed the boundaries of fashion, and his impact can still be seen in the works of so many contemporary designers like Raf Simons and Demna Gvasalia.
Margiela's first show for his eponymous label took place in the fall of 1989 on a derelict playground in a North African neighborhood on the outskirts of Paris. The show featured an uneven runway and intentionally stumbling models, creating a public spectacle that shocked the industry. The collection included ripped sleeves, frayed hems, and clumpy shoes, a stark contrast to the popular themes of extravagance, bold colors, and wide shoulders at the time. This show was also attended by Walter Van Beirendonck and his then young inter Raf Simons, who was, along with at least half the people in attendance as he recalls, moved to tears by the show and it changed everything on how he perceived fashion, Once he walked out of the show, he thought to himself
" That is what I am going to do!".
Maintaining Anonymity
Despite his influence, Margiela remains a notoriously private figure. He has consistently refused in-person interviews and photographs, maintaining an air of mystery that only adds to his enigmatic reputation. Instead, he prefers to let his designs speak for themselves, emphasizing that his work is the product of a collaborative team effort, which is not just a simple sentiment but a very real policy that extended until recently to the brand itself. Maison Martin Margiela's ultra-discreet trademark consists of a piece of cloth with a number between 0-23, with each number corresponding to a product line and circled in each case to indicate the collection to which the garment belongs.
Hermès Tenure
In addition to his own label, Margiela served as the creative director of womenswear at Hermès from 1997 to 2003. His tenure at the prestigious fashion house saw the creation of timeless, elegant designs that showcased his deconstructivist philosophy. He pioneered a timeless wardrobe focused on quality and inspired by 1920s sports and leisure clothing. Among his original designs include a jacket that can be rolled and carried like a bag, coats with removable collars and fastenings, the iconic twice looping strap of the Cape Cod watch, and the losange, a diamond-shaped scarf that has become one of Hermès' bestsellers.
Post-fashion Career and Artistic Pursuits
After leaving the world of fashion in 2009, Margiela turned his attention to art. He spent two years working with Lafayette Anticipations – Galeries Lafayette Corporate Foundation to create more than 40 artworks for his first solo exhibition which debuted in October 2021. The exhibits showcased his innovative and thought-provoking approach, featuring silicon spheres covered in human hair, large-scale paintings of dust particles, and blank spaces symbolizing the idea of an exhibition that is "in flux, unfinished, and in permanent movement."
The Lasting Legacy of Martin Margiela
Martin Margiela's influence on contemporary fashion is undeniable. His innovative deconstruction and reconstruction techniques, avant-garde approach, and commitment to repurposing materials have transformed the way designers think about and create luxury fashion. His work has left an indelible mark on the industry, inspiring countless designers and shaping the direction of fashion for years to come.
As the fashion world continues to grapple with the increasing influence of media and the pressure for designers to share their lives publicly, Margiela's desire for anonymity appears even more daring and significant. His unwavering commitment to letting his designs speak for themselves serves as a reminder of the importance of creativity and the power of collaboration.
In conclusion, Martin Margiela's life and legacy have not only redefined fashion but also made a profound impact on the industry. His enigmatic persona, groundbreaking approach to design, and the enduring influence of his work continue to captivate and inspire new generations of designers and fashion enthusiasts alike.