Yves Saint Laurent was born on this day in 1936 in Oran, Algeria. Since his death in 2008, his self-named couture house has experienced creative transformations dreamed up by Stefano Pilati (slight upheaval, closed stores), Hedi Slimane (revamped vision, shortened moniker), and—as of next month—Anthony Vaccarello of Versus Versace.
Throughout his life in fashion, Saint Laurent was a constant proponent of all things forward-thinking, introducing the first tuxedos for women, championing diversity in model casting, and even starring in his own campaigns—all feats that were revolutionary in his time. Here are five noteworthy moments from the storied career of Yves Saint Laurent.
1953–1955: Moves to Paris
After winning a prize in International Wool Secretariat design competition, Saint Laurent moved to Paris to pursue an education in fashion. He soon met Michel de Brunhoff, editor of French Vogue, who—after noticing similarities in aesthetic—introduced the young designer to Christian Dior.
1957: Becomes head designer at Christian Dior
Saint Laurent began working at Christian Dior as an intern of sorts, eventually providing sketches for the collections and ultimately being announced as Dior’s eventual successor. This came to pass sooner than expected, and for his first collection at the helm of the brand—at just 21-years-old—Saint Laurent showed a more delicate take on Dior’s "New Look," with pieces like the trapeze dress taking center stage.
1961: Creates his own couture house with partner Pierre Bergé
In 1960, he was drafted into the French Army, an event that led to both a nervous breakdown and his untimely dismissal from Dior. Once he recovered, Saint Laurent and Bergé set out to create their own house. The first collection debuted in 1962, which introduced the peacoat—and his slightly androgynous taste—as runway ready staples.
1966: Introduces Le Smoking, the first tuxedos for women
Complete with a cummerbund, Saint Laurent's "Le Smoking" was our first introduction to tuxedo styles for women, a trend which offered the backdrop of Hedi Slimane’s reimagined aesthetic during his time as creative director.
1971: "Libération" collection
YSL drew inspiration from the 1940s with his "Libération" collection, which was regarded as scandalous in Paris after its showing. The designer combined a wartime feel with a seemingly random and over-the-top selection of silhouettes, colors, and accessories, jarring critics of high fashion while imbuing the culture with a new, bolder sensibility.
1985: "African Queen" collection
After drawing inspiration from Africa for his 1967 collection, Saint Laurent debuted his “African Queen” collection, dedicating the show to longtime muse Iman. The designer was an early advocate of diversity on the runway, casting women like Katoucha Niane and Naomi Campbell, who credits Saint Laurent for her first French Vogue cover, in his shows.
