Located at 69° North, 350 kilometres above The Arctic Circle, Tromsø is a year-round destination, with the promise of Midnight Sun in the summer months, and the alluring possibility of the Aurora Borealis (Northern Lights) once the nights start to draw in. Nor is it just the skies at which visitors may wonder, for the winter months – November and December, in particular, are prime whale-watching time, with killer and humpback whales congregating to feast in fjord waters that teem with spawning herring.
The population of this Arctic city has exploded since the opening of Tromsø University in 1972, and students and teachers now make up around a quarter of its approximately 80,000 inhabitants. This, plus its popularity as a cruise destination and an awareness (fuelled by social media) of its Lights-chasing potential, have injected this Nordic city with a liveliness and sophistication that’s not immediately obvious in its centre, which is dominated by the wooden Tromsø Cathedral (built in 1861) and colourful, quaint, timber-clad shop fronts.
With evidence of Ice Age habitation, Tromsø was also an important Viking site, dating back as far as the late 9th century. The indigenous Sami people have also left their mark on Northern Norwegian culture. Read on to discover how best to spend your time in Tromsø.
Things to do in Tromsø
Enjoy an invigorating sauna experience
With its striking wooden architecture, combining a flat-roofed structure surrounded by a graceful isosceles framework that almost mirrors the bones of the Arctic Cathedral, visible on the other side of the harbour, the shape of Pust (the name means ’breathe’ in Norwegian) is based on a traditional ‘hjell’ – the wooden racks on which freshly caught fish are hung. Not only is the architecture of this floating sauna true to its roots, then, but so is the offering. Guests – on timed bookings – sweat it up in the sauna before plunging into the salty, icy, waters of the fjord… and then head back into the sauna and start all over again.
Visit A Husky Kennel
Located about a 25-minute drive from Tromsø, the Tromsø Villmarksenter (wilderness centre) is home to around 200 working Alaskan Huskies and is a must-do for any animal lover – or indeed, anyone with a beating heart. Sociable, well-trained, and incredibly well-cared for, visitors can expect a warm, licky, and frequently jumpy welcome from every member of the pack (a word of warning: don’t expect the ludicrously cute pups to be quite as well-behaved as the adults). Activities include dog-sledging excursions, whether independently or as a passenger, as well as husky hiking, which enables you to take these beautiful creatures for a walk in the Arctic wilderness surrounding their home.
Explore the world’s northernmost Botanic Garden
Located near the University, the Tromsø Arctic-Alpine Botanical Garden is, for several months of the year, under the cover of snow. But this is one of the things that makes it more special since there are varieties of flora here, such as Delft-blue Tibetan Poppies, that can only otherwise be found in the Himalayas. Unwalled, and free to enter all year round, it’s home to some of the world’s rarest flora, including 25 species-specific examples of flowers, such as primulas, gentians and rhododendrons. Visitors can also expect to see the Wilander Buttercup, endemic to the glacial realm of Svalbard, 900 km north of Tromsø, and currently under threat due to global warming.
Ride the Fjellheisen
At any time of year, the city’s cable car offers, as the website promises, the ‘most beautiful view in Tromsø.’ Whooshing you up to 421 metres above sea level in around four minutes, you can, depending on the season, set off on various hiking trails, or stay and play in the snow, waiting for the Aurora Borealis to make her magical appearance. Either way, there’s a café/ restaurant up top, where you can fuel up for an adventure, or wind down for an evening of sky-high views which, Aurora or not, bring Tromsø to glittering life.
Experience Sámi Culture at a Reindeer Farm
If your visit to Tromsø falls in the winter months, a visit to a reindeer farm is a must (the attraction is closed over the spring and summer for calving season, during which the reindeer roam the mountains. Specific opening dates change from year to year, so check the website). Operated by a Sámi reindeer herding family, visitors have the opportunity to go reindeer sledging by night or day, as well as to participate in hand-feeding, and taking a hot meal inside a lavvu, a traditional Sámi tent, while learning about Sámi history and folklore.
Visit the Troll Museum
This pocket-sized museum occupies just one floor and is handily located opposite the harbour. Don’t be fooled by the fairytale nature of the venue’s name – as well as being fabulously family-friendly, the Troll Museum also adds depth and meaning to anything you might already know about Norse mythology and fairytales. AR technology brings the exhibits to life and well-thought-out placards, positioned alongside each display, enhance the experience – as does the reading room and organised games. Seeing images of the natural phenomena behind some of the troll legends will almost certainly spark your wanderlust for some of Norway’s remotest regions.
Admire the Arctic Cathedral
Completed in 1965, this triangular, Jan Inge Hovig-designed structure takes its inspiration from the surrounding peaks and icicle formations, as well as the three prongs of the Holy Trinity. Best observed by night (or on a sunny day), when its stained glass gleams with colour, its acoustics also make it a hub for year-round musical performances, enjoyed by those who cross the bridge and encounter the Cathedral up close. To get the most out of your Arctic Cathedral experience, be sure to visit Tromsø Cathedral in the centre of town, too: this lovely, wooden, primrose-hued example of 19th-century architecture is not only a destination in and of itself, but it also provides a fascinating architectural contrast to this other iconic place of worship in Tromsø.
Chase the Northern Lights
Witnessing the spectacle of the ‘dancing green lady’ is a dream for many, but one that has a decent chance of coming true in Tromsø if you plan your visit between October and March – and if your stay in Tromsø falls over November to January, you’re likely to spot whales by day, as well. There are, of course, several ways to see the Aurora Borealis, whether on a dinner cruise or from the top of the Fjellheisen, but having a knowledgeable guide enriches the experience considerably. Legendary Adventure is run by Espen Minde, a Tromsø local, and offers a range of Northern Lights packages, ranging from multi-day tours to ones lasting several, campfire-lit, hours.
Set sail in an historic cutter
Built in 1917, Hermes II is a handsomely restored wooden fishing boat that’s lived through a World War and had a movie role in 2017’s 12th Man. With capacity for up to 35 people on board, you can choose from a shorter excursion in Tromsø Sound to see the city and its surrounding mountains from the water, or try your hand at fishing in the fjords on a longer trip.
Where to shop in Tromsø
Chain and designer stores are refreshingly sparse in Tromsø, but if it’s outdoor equipment you’re after, you’ll be spoilt for choice. There are, of course, a number of gift shops selling touristy knick-knacks (think trolls and Viking Horns) but more interest and variety can be found elsewhere. There is a Sámi Shop (Kirkegata 129008, 9008 Tromsø) selling a variety of knives, antlers and leather goods, but if you want to be sure that your tourist dollar is doing good, shop online at Sámi Gift Shop. With a range of handcrafts, including wooden cups, utensils made from antlers, and woollen mittens, the store was started by a Sámi family of traditional reindeer herders, working with other Sámi communities to offer authentic gifts to support and protect indigenous communities and culture.
UFF
A small but enticing vintage store, UFF is one of a Norwegian chain of second-hand shops raising money for aid work in vulnerable countries, such as Mozambique, Namibia and India. Prices are very reasonable, and if you’re still hankering after a Sarah Lund (The Killing) sweater, or have a yen for seventies-style ski gear, this is the place.
Address: Storgata 41, 9008 Tromsø
Website: uffnorge.org
Edel Antikk og Vintage
If you like your souvenirs served up with a heavy dose of vintage flair, look no further: this delightful wooden-fronted store has retro Scandi vibes in spades. Colourful ceramics, gorgeous glassware, grandma-style linens, and a collection of old books, maps and pamphlets can all be found here, as well as a small range of preloved clothing.
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Address: Storgata 62, 9008 Tromsø
Website: instagram.com
Rein Love
Quality organic and fairtrade streetwear is the mainstay of this independent store. The logo, a white reindeer, derives from folklore, as this creature is known to stray from the herd, summarising the brand’s ‘stay wild’ ethos. Regular in-store events feature local artists, and you can pick up a locally roasted coffee while you browse. Luggage already crammed to capacity? Order online safe in the knowledge that 3 per cent of your purchase goes to the Rein Love Foundation and that your shipping will be climate compensated.
Address: Storgata 98, 9008 Tromsø
Website: reinlove.com
The best bars and restaurants in Tromsø
Maskinverkstedet
Located near the port, Maskinverkstedet is housed in a building once used for boat engine and machinery repairs. It has retained elements of this industrial past in the decor, combining them with exposed girders, modern lighting and sleek velvet chairs in a deep shade of green. The menu, inevitably, offers several ‘from-the-sea’ options, including mussels and fish gratin, but there are also lighter salads or soups. Go local with a traditional worker’s lunch, combining fried potatoes, bacon, sausage, egg, grilled bread, mustard and pickled beet, or chow down on a reindeer burger with dirty fries.
Address: Nordøstpassasjen 49, 9008 Tromsø
Website: maskinverkstedet.no
Mathallen
Presided over by award-winning chef Gunnar Jensen, this restaurant, located in the centre of town, specialises in northern Norwegian ingredients such as local cheeses, herring and meats, all served with a twist and world-class presentation. The industrial vibe is strong here, with black interiors, exposed lighting and metal shelving contrasting nicely with the warmth of the wooden tables – and the wine choices are extensive and superb. There’s also an on-site deli for those who want to take some of the flavours of Tromsø to go.
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Address: Grønnegata 60, 9008 Tromsø
Website: mathallentromso.no
Risø mat og kaffebar
Housed in a traditional wooden building, you only need to follow your nose to this cosy coffee shop – the smell of cinnamon rolls will lead the way. Perfectly counter-brewed coffee provides the perfect accompaniment to a range of sweet and savoury treats, while cooked breakfasts and light lunches are also served.
Address: Strandgata 32, 9008 Tromsø
Website: risoe-mk.no
Ølhallen Brewpub
Opened in 1928, this is the oldest pub in Tromsø, and was once frequented by fishermen, farmers and local men – women weren’t allowed on the premises, and the point was driven home by a complete absence of toilet facilities for them. By the 1960s, rebellious female students dared to enter this hallowed male sanctuary and eventually, new bathrooms were built (and immediately designated ‘male’ - the girls had to put up with the old ones). Even now, however, the décor is refreshingly old-school: think brown, by way of exposed brick, tiled floors and wooden fittings, interspersed with hunting and trapping memorabilia. There’s also a huge polar bear, a nod to Tromsø local, Henry Rudi, who once frequented ‘the Hall’ and killed more than 700 polar bears during his hunting career: there’s even a corner of the pub dedicated to him, under the moniker of Isbjørnkongen – The Polar Bear King. A more refreshing thought is that of the 72 tap beers served here, all brewed by Mack, the northernmost brewery in the world, about 70 km beyond Tromsø.
Address: Storgata 4, 9008 Tromsø
Website: mack.no/en
Where to stay in Tromsø
Moxy Tromsø
Part of Marriott International’s portfolio, this 208-room Moxy represents the hotel group’s northernmost opening. Conveniently located within minutes of the airport, it tones down the Moxy’s usual cheeky playfulness to give the floor-to-ceiling views of the fjords centre stage. Even so, expect signature Moxy touches such as pops of pink, chirpy elevator and bedroom-mirror messages, bar check-in with a welcome cocktail, and simple yet comfortable rooms, with the focus on communal spaces where you can mingle over games or quietly contemplate the spectacle of the setting.
Address: Moxy Tromso, Huldervegen 2, 9016 Tromsø, Norway
Clarion Hotel The Edge
Situated right by the water’s edge, ask for a room at the front of this 290-room hotel to get the most from the location. Architecturally sleek, this is Tromsø’s largest conference hotel, a fact that’s reflected in the room design, which is somewhat purpose-driven, while comfortable and spacious. A vast and varied breakfast buffet is included in the room rate, and the Skybar, on the 11th floor, is a great place to grab a drink and take in the views.
Address: Clarion Hotel The Edge, Kaigata 6, 9008 Tromsø, Norway
The Glass Loft Apartment
Owned by an Airbnb ‘superhost,’ this apartment is located in one of the city’s older neighbourhoods, Malselvgata, about a ten-minute walk from the centre. The real draw, of course, is the glass-encased living area, which provides views over the city skyline and surrounding mountains. Expect typically Scandi touches, such as sheepskins and cosy rugs.