The trends to know from Milan Fashion Week AW22

Milan Fashion Week took place against an unsettled backdrop in Europe. The world watched missiles falling across Ukraine and its residents fleeing danger, as President Vladimir Putin ordered Russia’s invasion of the country.

The shows in Milan went on however, amidst Russia’s attack which started in the early hours of Thursday 24 February.

Out of respect over the attack on Ukraine, and in support for those affected, Designer Giorgio Armani, muted the catwalk show for his eponymous label on Sunday, as models walked the runway in silence.

Gucci unveiled a collaboration with Adidas during Milan Fashion Week.

It was a season of firsts for the luxury labels showing at Milan Fashion Week. Gucci unveiled a surprise collaboration with Adidas – with the Italian luxury house incorporating sporty details into its AW22 collection. These included tailored blazers and trousers with Adidas’ signature three-stripe logo seen on the sides, and a combination of the Adidas and Gucci logo on pieces including knitwear, sweater dresses, string vests, men and women’s suiting and accessories including swimming hats, caps and gloves.

Gucci had previously collaborated with Kering-owned stablemate Balenciaga for its 100th anniversary.

It was also the much anticipated debut collection of Bottega Veneta’s new artistic director Matthieu Blazy, who took the helm from Daniel Lee in November 2021.

Matthieu Blazy's first collection as artistic director of Bottega Veneta

Blazy’s first catwalk for Bottega Veneta included sleek, minimal shapes for both men’s and women's wear – with fluid tailored shirts and loose-fit trousers for both, in inky tones, before morphing into leather suits for menswear, and flashes of frivolous fringing in purple and yellow shades for womenswear. Teddy textured coats and shimmering camisole sequins showed a playful and joyous side to the collection. Metallic, thigh-high heeled boots, fur textured heeled wedges and footwear was reimagined in the woven, intrecciato leather that is synonymous with the brand’s handbags – in womenswear heels and menswear loafers.

Drapers looks at the trends to know from Milan Fashion Week.

Ladylike looks

Cinched waists and feminine silhouettes were one of the main tailoring trends seen in Milan. Fendi showed smart workwear shirts tucked neatly into pencil skirts. Outerwear at Jil Sander had a similar prim shape – with large lapels, below-knee lengths and waist belts emphasising the figure. Alberta Ferretti gave a 1940s aesthetic – thanks to wide-brimmed fedora hats, and layers of tailored jackets and skirts belted at the waist. Prada co-creative directors Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons also opted for a ladylike look, with a pleated A-line skirt giving a nod to the 1940s look.

Sheer style

Dressing up is firmly back on the agenda, with designers showing a series of delicate, transparent fabrics on the catwalks. At Fendi (main image above), slip dresses and skirts were seen in pastel shades of pale pink and blue, with feminine pink hems, which was echoed with strappy sheer dresses and midi skirts at Prada. At MSGM, party dresses consisted of shimmering, chainmail sequins, while Dolce & Gabbana showed sheer, embellished mini-dresses with oversized shoulder pads that gave a nod to American football jerseys.

Under wraps

The heat is being kept in for next season – with quilting one of the top outerwear trends seen in Milan. Puffer jackets were cropped at Versace, with corset-like cuts, while Dolce & Gabbana opted for a sleeping-bag inspired look which enveloped the wearer. The cushioned style was more restrained at Max Mara, which showed a quilted skirt with utility drawstring details, and a comparatively understated, grey, longline puffer coat at Emporio Armani.

Blushing shades

Soft shades of pale pink were popular on the runways of Milan. Italian label Andreadamo showed textured ribbed and faux fur looks in the pastel shade, while Del Core kept it simple with a candy-coloured mid-length sweater dress. Etro showed velvet tailoring in soft pink tones, contrasted with a waist belt, while Blumarine layered tones of blush and pink hues, from flowing dresses, to bold outerwear.

Keeping it fierce

It wouldn’t be Milan without a sprinkling of the wild print – and it was certainly spotted on the runways. Etro showed a glamorous, flowing leopard print maxi dress, and Roberto Cavalli upped the ante on glitz, with a dramatic leopard print cape and skirt look. The Palm Angels brand showed a shimmering tiger stripe co-ord, while MM6 Maison Margiela looked to slithering snake print, seen on a blue single-breasted blazer.

Tux and tails

Saturday night fever gripped Gucci, which showed a contrasting white and black tuxedo, amidst the unveiling of its collaboration with Adidas. Dolce & Gabbana opted for a glistening gold tuxedo jacket with oversized shoulder pads, and teamed with matching gold city shorts. Palm Angels showed a powder blue jacket with contrasting black lapels, while Philipp Plein took an alternative approach to the suit – offering lightning bolt lapels.